Yoga by the Ganga
As
yoga becomes increasingly popular, more people are returning to India
to discover its roots. There is no better place than Rishikesh.
Of all the sixties’ colourful mythology, the
Beatles’ discovery of the guru Maharishi, and their subsequent
departure to India in search of enlightenment, ranks among the stranger
occurrences. The world wondered if the Fab Four had found a higher
truth, or just lost the plot altogether. As is often the case, it
turned out to be a bit of both. Their search for enlightenment ended
in failure, but they drew the world’s attention to eastern spirituality,
and put a small Indian town named Rishikesh on the map.
The Beatles’ exploits are now the stuff of legend, but the place
that inspired them has since become the unofficial yoga capital of
India. Today, numerous ashrams welcome both Indians and Westerners,
offering courses that cater to all levels and styles of yoga. Whether
you want to spend months in the strictest of confines, chanting and
meditating for hours each day, or stay for a week in a comfortable
hotel and attend classes at your leisure, Rishikesh is the place to
go.
Rishikesh
was a destination for pilgrims long before the arrival of the Beatles.
The Garhwal region of the Himalayan foothills in which Rishikesh is
located, has been significant in Hindu mythology for thousands of
years. It is known as the abode of Shiva, and features in the great
Hindu epics, the Mahabharata and the Ramayana.
The first large ashram was built here in 1880, and since then many
great gurus have made it their home. It was here that Swami Sivananda,
whose Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centres are now found all over the world,
established his first ashram. As early as the 1920s, Sivananda was
attracting foreign pilgrims to Rishikesh and his ashram remains one
of the largest today.
But the town’s location was the most crucial factor in its development.
It sits almost exactly on the boundary between the hot and crowded
northern plains and the cool valleys and forests of the Himalaya.
Rishikesh’s beautiful scenery, peaceful atmosphere and moderate
climate made it the perfect spot for pilgrims to stop and rest as
they made their way to the high mountains shrines at the source of
the River Ganges. Many still consider it to have the perfect environment
for the practice of yoga.
On arrival, Rishikesh can seem none too appealing. The centre of the
town, where all trains and buses arrive, is as noisy and polluted
as any other Indian city. Fortunately, just a short rickshaw ride
north along the bank of the Ganges will take you beyond the crowded
centre, where the town’s true charm becomes apparent.
Most of Rishikesh’s ashrams lie between two suspension bridges,
named Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, that span the clear water of the
Ganges. Here, the riverbanks are lined with huge, multi-storeyed temples
painted in bright oranges and reds, adorned with slogans in bold Hindi
script and topped with clusters of pyramids. Just beyond the temples,
the sides of the valley rise up steeply into thick forest, alive with
birds, butterflies and monkeys.
It’s easy to lose yourself in the labyrinthine alleyways that
connect the numerous ashrams and temples, and that soon becomes part
of the fun. Even the narrowest alleyways are choc-a-bloc with strange
and colourful stalls. You can find just about anything on sale, from
sweet masala chai and hot chapattis to Bollywood films and dress-up
dolls of Lord Krishna.
The
town’s denizens are equally intriguing. Dishevelled holy men,
called saddhus, wander the streets day and night. You might find them
squatting beneath the shade of a banyan tree in a solitary contemplation,
or sitting around campfires in boisterous groups, passing round a
smoking chillam (a wooden pipe used to smoke marijuana). They make
for a remarkable sight with their bright saffron robes flowing in
the wind, their hair and beards growing as wild and unkempt as jungle
vines and the religious markings of ash and vermillion smeared across
their foreheads.
Even the ashrams in Rishkesh are not the austere places of yoga and
meditation you would imagine. The largest, Parmarth Niketan, is always
crowded with boisterous Indian families. Laughing children dash to
and fro in the gardens while their parents take photos next to cartoonish
statues of Hindu gods or place offerings beneath the many shrines.
Every walk becomes an adventure; you never know who or what may be
waiting around the next corner.
But
even compared to the kaleidoscopic swirl of daily life, the highlight
of any visit to Rishikesh is the nightly Ganga Aarti, or fire worship
ceremony, at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram. Just before sunset, dozens
of pilgrims gather around a blazing fire of sandalwood and incense
beside the river. As the sun dips beneath the horizon, a traditional
Indian band begins to play and everyone sways to the rhythm of the
tabla and sings with the melody of the sitar. As the cool blue of
twilight bleeds across the sky, the Brahmins light huge ghee lanterns
and pass them through the crowd until everyone has offered the fire
to the river and made their personal blessing.
As
darkness finally falls, the glow of the golden lamps, the flickering
flames and the joyous singing rise to a crescendo of light and energy
that could touch and uplift even the coldest heart. Every person goes
home with a true sense of the glorious celebration, intoxicating ritual
and unshakable devotion of the Hindu faith, something that will stay
with them long after Rishikesh has become another memory.
Facts for the visitor:
The following ashrams all welcome foreigners and offer classes in
English. The standard price for a one-hour class is around 60p.
Parmarth Niketan:
This is the largest ashram and probably the most popular choice for
westerners. The approach is friendly and relaxed, although the schedule
of classes and meditation is rigorous. Most courses run for a full
month, although it is possible to stay for as little as two weeks.
There are several daily classes in hatha and kundalini yoga, pranayama,
meditation and vedic chanting. Drop-in yoga classes are available
to non-residents. Shared accommodation, including three simple vegetarian
meals per day and all classes is available for a suggested donation
of £66 per week. Contact info: Parmarth Niketan, PO Swargashram,
Distt. Tehri-Garhwal , 249 304, India. Tel: 0091 135 434301, 434302,
434308, Fax: 0091 434399, Email: Parmarth@aol.com.
Sri Ved Niketan Ashram:
A smaller and quieter complex than Parmarth, located beside the river
away from the centre of town. They do everything from drop-in classes
to courses of one week, one month or six months. They teach a gentle
form of hatha yoga, along with daily classes in meditation, pranayama
and classical Indian dance. Basic single or double rooms with bathroom,
arranged around a grassy courtyard, and cost as little as £1.75
a night. Contact info: Sri Ved Niketan Ashram, PO Swargashram, Distt.
Tehri-Garhwal , 249 304, India. Tel: 0091 135 433537, 430279.
Yoga Niketan Ashram:
High above the western side of the river, this ashram gets fewer visitors
than the ashrams in the centre of town and offers a tranquil atmosphere
and outstanding views of the valley. The teaching style is very traditional,
offering only standard forms of hatha yoga and meditation, as well
as daily lectures on scriptures and meditation techniques. The minimum
length of stay is 15 days, at £3 per day for food, basic lodging
and four classes. Contact info: Yoga Niketan Ashram, PO Shivanandanagar,
Distt. Tehri-Garhwal, Uttaranchal, 249 192, India. Tel: 0091 135 430227.
Sivananda Ashram:
This fortress-like ashram sits high above the main road running through
Rishikesh. The ashram’s rules are numerous and strictly enforced.
Prayer begins at 5am, followed by a full day of religious worship,
meditation and one yoga class. A great place for the seriously devout,
although others may find it a little too austere. Accommodation and
food is available for a voluntary donation. It is not affiliated the
the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Ashrams. Contact info: Sivananda Ashram,
PO Shivanandanagar, Distt. Tehri-Garhwal, Uttaranchal, 249 192, India.
Omkarananda Ashram:
More of a large guesthouse than a typical ashram, Omkarananda stands
on the western bank of the river overlooking a large white marble
bathing platform. They teach energetic classes in Iyengar yoga every
day, along with lectures on Hindu scriptures and evening prayer. The
interior of the ashram is clean and modern. Rooms with private bathroom
and a balcony overlooking the river cost £3 per night. Contact
info: Omkarananda Ashram, PO Shivanandanagar 249 192, Distt Tehri_Garhwal,
Uttaranchal, India. Tel: 0091 135 431473, 430763, Fax: 0091 135 432662.
Hotels: If not staying in an ashram, the best place
to stay is the high bank, a peaceful spot high above the river with
fantastic views of the valley. Recommended here are the Peasants Cottage,
Tel: 0091 136 431167, and the Swiss Cottage, Tel: 0091 136 432269.
Getting there: Typical return fares from Heathrow
to New Delhi range from £500-600. Sri Lankan Airlines and Emirates
are generally the cheapest. Rishikesh is 238 km from Delhi. Buses
and trains depart daily. For train reservations go to http://indianrail.gov.in/
