Shifting sands and caravans.
A
camel safari through India's Thar desert
“In the desert, it’s very important to be friends with
your camel. If your camel doesn’t like you, he’ll make
lots of problems.” Those were the first words that Kuba, my
desert guide, said as we approached four intimidating beasts gathered
in the shade of a small tree. “This is Tendulkar, you’ll
ride him,” he said, pointing to the largest camel with his stick.
“Don’t worry. Indian camels are the best in the world.
Now make friends!” With that, he gave Tendulkar a firm whack
on the flank with his cane, sending him into a fit of bellowing and
snorting, very nearly showering me in a torrent of foamy saliva. This
was a bad sign. Read more...
Now leaving planet Earth...
A
journey through the bizarre, alien landscape of the high Bolivian
desert
The cold, thin air burned my throat with every breath,
barely providing enough oxygen to hold back the black fingers that
were clawing at the edge of my vision. I trod carefully on the damp
cracked earth, fearing a collapse with every step. All around me thick
clouds of steam poured from dark holes that riddled the frost covered
ground – bubbling mud pots and hissing fumaroles that were letting
loose their full fury, saturating the air with the stench of sulphur.
Occasionally the swirling mass of vapour would part, dazzling me with
the light of a distant, yet blinding sun. As the yellow orb crept
higher in the sky, its warming rays poured like molten steel over
the frozen hills, immersing everything in a fiery furnace of orange
and red. I could see why they called this place ‘Tomorrow’s
Sun’. Read more...
Beyond the Amazon
Exploring
Brazil's Pantanal - the world's largest wetland
My bruised behind bounced on the hard wooden bench
of our rough old truck as it careened through a large puddle, propelling
a thick black cloud of mosquitoes up through the wooden boards of
the floor. They swarmed over every inch of exposed flesh like a biblical
plague, driving us to the brink of madness. Yet, moments later, our
itches were forgotten and we found ourselves laughing with delight.
As we lurched through another deep pothole, a swirling mass of butterflies
engulfed the truck, winding their way up into the blue sky like confetti
on the breeze. This is the way of the Pantanal – to take whatever
nature hands to you, good or bad. Read
more...
